So I’ve got cases with bearings in & the next stage is to set crank endfloat. First thing to do is to stick the centre gasket to one of the case sides. I prefer to use the drive side which houses the studs for bolting the cases together. You will be dismantling the cases several times in order to set crank end float & if the gasket is on the other side you stand the chance of damaging it or pulling it off as the studs exit the bolt holes.
Before gooing the gasket in place (Hylomar or Wellseal being my choice) you might like to try fitting the cases, with studs & dowels fitted, together & check they come together precisely & separate cleanly without need to resort to hammers & chisels.
I now bolt up the cases overnight to fix & compress the gasket. This ensures an accurate endfloat figure can be arrived at which wont be affected by the gasket “giving” when the crankcase studs & bolts are finally tightened.
If the endfloat needs adjustment shims will be needed behind the bearing inners. I’ve never had “tight” cases as I ensure the crank is rebuilt accurately to the 66.20mm dimensions given in the workshop manual. This ensures a slightly “loose” crank at worst which will need a few thou of shims to get the endfloat correct.
Some would say shims should be added equally to both sides but I prefer to let rod centrality dictate which side should be shimmed or the distribution proportions right & left. The first trial fitting of the crank will not only reveal the end float correction required but also where the shims should be.
There is no need to assemble the gearbox prior to the cases closing for the last time. The gear cluster & selector mechanism can be offered up assembled to the outer box cover. An idea copied by Japan many years later – the “cassette” box was seen as a great innovation enabling gear ratios on race bikes to be changed at the trackside without splitting the crankcases. Not a facility needed on a Parilla but it is an advantage when rebuilding.